Usually when I take a bus into Kigali, I walk down to Mukinga and hop on one coming from Musanze. Since I'm getting on later, I don't have much of a choice about where I sit. I always cross my fingers that there's a seat open in the front, otherwise it's a long, stomach churning hour and a half through the hills. Each row but the last has two regular seats, a bucket seat that folds into the aisle, and then another regular seat against the window. My favorite spot to sit is a non-bucket seat in the row behind the driver. This is because I can put my bag on the floor next to me without anyone having to step over it and I don't have to grip my hands and feet against something to keep my seat from chucking me onto the person next to me. Also, since it's close to the front, I don't get carsick and I can have the driver change the radio station for me if they play Kenny Rogers one time too many. Here are some of my more interesting bus experiences:
The Proposal Ride:
This time I was surrounded by men. A lot more men take the bus and the women who are on them usually don't want to talk with me. But not so with the guys. This time, one started up a conversation with me and after 5 minutes, had asked me to be his wife. That wasn't so unusual, but apparently my other neighbors thought they had a better chance, because by the end of the ride I had rejected four people.
The Awkward Ride:
One day I was forced to sit in the very last bucket seat in the back. About 15 minutes into the trip I started to feel sick from all the bouncing around. The bucket seats have a short back that digs into your spine when you lean back too much making it hard to brace yourself against the motion. So usually I lean on the side of the larger seat next to me. It helps with the motion sickness and prevents my seat from rocking out of place on a big turn. This day, I closed my eyes, wishing I could just fall asleep and wake up in Kigali. I must have been tired because that's exactly what I did. But to my surprise, when I woke up, I was no longer lying against the cushioned side of the seat next to me. Hands hanging down to the ground like a monkey's, mouth open and cheek on a stranger's shoulder, I'm sure I looked ridiculous. Typically, not wanting to address an awkward situation, my new pillow never woke me up, so I have no idea how long I had been leaning on him.
The Ride Which Lacked Airsick Bags
One weekend, I went all the way into Musanze to catch the bus. I think there must have been a wedding in Kigali or else some kind of ceremonial event because almost every other passenger on board was a village woman with a basket of beans or rice. People from the villages don't ride the bus very often and they always seem to have problems with the motion. It was unusual to be riding with this many of them on board. Not far down the road, the vomiting started. Not having any bags, the ladies would take off one of the half dozen or so layers of clothing that they were wearing and be sick into that. Then they would ball it up and put it on their lap or next to them until they needed it next. Luckily, I had sat next to a window, so I just opened it a crack and stuck my nose out for the rest of the ride, trying not to think of the ball of fabric touching my leg. Adding to that, someone put a covered basket of beans on the floor, unsecured, and it tipped over, spilling several kilos of beans. The whole ride they would slide back and forth and back and forth around your feet as the bus took the hills. I was sitting right behind the step to the door and noticed that there was a small hole in the metal flooring through which you could see the passing ground. Every once in awhile a bean would make its escape through the hole. It was like watching someone play one of those games with the little metal ball that you try to tip into a hole in the cardboard background.
The Ride where I make a friend
Occasionally I'll sit next to someone who wants to talk with me but is not interested in proposing. This always makes for a pleasant passing of the time. One time I sat next to a man who works for World Relief in Masaka, an area of Kigali. He told me about his work turning street kids into students and we found out that we had a mutual friend: he had gone to school with one of my neighboring priests. This past weekend, I sat next to Martin, an English and Geography teacher at the police academy in Musanze. He showed me a picture of his wife and told me about how they're going to have a little girl in a few months. We talked about different social issues in Rwanda, traded favorites in English and African literature, and discussed the plusses and minuses of the two newest phone companies in Rwanda. We traded numbers and hopefully will meet up sometime to exchange some books.
The Ride with real Food
Coming back from Kigali I had caught a bus that wasn't express. This means that they will make stops besides Musanze. Since most people's destination is Musanze, it usually only stops once or twice. This particular day, we made a stop and along with the gum and peanut vendors, a man came up to the window with roasted corn! This was the first time I had seen it sold in Rwanda. I wanted to buy an ear, but was having a hard time believing that it was actually okay to eat it on the bus. Hesitating too long, I missed my chance and the four ears he had to sell were soon bought up. As we got back on the road I noticed that the driver in the row ahead of me had bought one and was having a hard time eating it and driving at the same time. "Muzungu!" he called. "Umuchoferi!" (driver) I responded. He handed me his partially eaten ear of corn. He seemed to think that I had never tried such an exotic thing before and that he was going to help culture me. He kept telling me to eat so I took a bite and tried to hand it back. When he refused to take it, I broke it into a few pieces and gave them to a couple of the other passengers and we finished it off. I'm hoping that roasted corn on the bus will become a trend, but I haven't seen it again, so maybe it was just a dream.